Showing posts with label tenochtitlan. Show all posts
Showing posts with label tenochtitlan. Show all posts

Wednesday, May 4, 2011

Lo Prometido es Deuda

And so, the book review as promised*




Escondido, 2005, from the Mazahuacholoskatopunk series. Photo by: Federico Gama

There is a legend that runs through artist circles in Mexico about the surrealist French photographer Henri Cartier-Bresson’s first visit to that country. They say Cartier-Bresson was so moved and overwhelmed with visual stimulation that he declared all one had to do to find a surrealist image while in Mexico was to point one’s camera and simply shoot. Apparently, Cartier-Bresson found the surrealist promised land in le Mexique.

I often times find myself imagining Mr. Cartier-Bresson wondering the streets of Mexico camera and western sensibilities in hand, like some sort of belated colonialist explorer encountering the totem-like mishmash of the ancient, colonial and the modern that makes up Mexico. My own voyeuristic fascination with Mexico, like all the best voyeuristic endeavors in life, is deeply personal. I am, to put it mildly, passionately in love with its fluid pump-up-the-color-volume folklorico-piñata-dance chaos. Fortunately, this love abounds and Daniel Hernandez’s new book, a quasi telenovela meets Boogie Nights love letter to the 20 plus million metropolis that is Mexico City, is a worthwhile testament.

To take Hernandez’s book as simply a non-fiction travel book or as the cool kids are calling it these days, creative non-fiction travel book, would be a mistake. Hernandez’s book is fascinating precisely because he is NOT: 1) trying to find himself by teaching English in another country 2) throwing himself into hard labor in a remote indigenous village 3) has no philanthropic endeavors 4) and NO broken heart he needs to mend through ancient indigenous practices. Hernandez is on a mission to find himself, a San Diego native, Angeleno transplant via Tijuana, Mexico whose parents warn him early on that in el DF (Mexico City, pronounced ‘de – efe ’), he’ll get his socks stolen while he’s got his shoes on. Instead of making him run up towards Canada, Hernandez, a self-described “dark-skinned” pocho mexi-gringo, decides to move to el monstruo (the monster, a tongue and cheek term-of-endearment for el DF). It is in el monstruo that Hernandez leads us through a series of hoyos funkys, underground tunnels that weave through the city coming up momentarily from time to time for brief snap-shots of a series of urban subcultures that include but are not limited to fashionista fairies, nezayorkinos, banda, grafiteros, emos and fresas.

One of, I believe, nine children raised by immigrant parents in Southern California, by the end of the book you get a sense that Hernandez is some sort of desert chameleon one minute drinking a cahuama (a family sized beer sold in Mexico) with a friend in a run-down prostitute laden side of town and the next schmoozing with the crème-de-la-crème Mexican up-and-coming fashion, artist, writing crowd. I suppose a warning against whiplash is in order. Nevertheless, it is through these encounters that Hernandez not only lays out the mega-city for us with all of its divine contradictions, but it is precisely through these urban-life snippets that he refreshingly peels back and exposes his own identity based struggles. Knowing exactly from where he was coming, I found myself wanting to reach through the pages to shake his hand on several occasions. There are particularities to being a fill-in-the-blank –American and going back to the country of “origin” that I believe might transcend beyond one particular experience or culture, Hernandez’s book would fit that category. The prodigal son that leaves the land of opportunity for the land our parents left behind. This is not Cartier-Bresson getting off a plane baptizing Mexico as the surrealist-promised land.

The book is a quick read at that, one that I intentionally extended and savored piece by piece until despite my every effort it’s pages ran out. At the end of the journey through one of the largest urban jungles in the world, it is obvious that although Hernandez is gifted with those chameleon-like tendencies I previously mentioned, it is the magic of the city itself that allows Hernandez and the millions of transplants that keep pumping into it, to transform themselves day in and day out.

Suggested music:

CUMBIA!

Rock en Español

*This entry first appeared in Le Chaim.

Thursday, April 28, 2011

Aventuras en Voyeurism

Nezayorkinos, Fresas, and Fashionista Faries en la Gran Tenochtitlan

Aztec Punk, 2005, from the Mazahuacholoskatopunk series. Photo by: Federico Gama

Ando emocionada, finished Daniel Hernandez's "Down and Delirious in Mexico City" a few days ago and wrote a review that was very generously published by Le Chaim. I had a blast writing the review and so I am now looking for my next victim, ja ja ja! Here's a link for anyone interested in cruising on over to Le Chaim.  Will repost the review on this site a week or so from now as well, just cause ando emocionada ;]

Tuesday, July 20, 2010

L.O.V.E. Gran Tenochtitlan Style

La Gran Tenochtitlán in action, July 2010.

It's been a long road back to LOVE... but OH! how sweet it is this unexpected reencuentro con un viejo amor

La Gran Tenochtitlán they call her, no es por nada... Cast her spell on me more than a decade back as a young guarache wearing chamaquilla. Swallowed me whole la cabrona, flipped me upside-down, shook me like a licuadora on her peseros, used me as mantequilla on her metros, and de relajo on her taxis.

She's impresive la condenada, blink and you'll find yourself all wrapped up in her rebozo. Pasale un tequila and bring her serenata, whisper sweet nothings to her ear and she'll break open like a pikachu piñata. Proceed con cuidado or she'll make you love her, swear to never leave her... 

I suppose our reencuentro has been a long time coming... can't remember the last time I felt this way about her. Butterflies in my stomach, my eyes growing wider and wider in wonderment, feeling like an esquincle in Willy Wonka's pad, wanting to do everything at once, don't know which way to turn first... Se luce la despiadada everywhere I go como medusa and all I want to do is sail through her mazes, loose myself for a while.

She used to make me feel this way all the time until I cut her off. Went down south and gave her up, so I thought. Oaxaca has been a jealous mistress y ni cuenta me di. She's had me all embrujada for a while and just when I think it's over she parades herself through the streets, beautiful, colorful, bailando con banda, regalando mezcal and throwing regalitos to all her lovers. 

But this time I wont wait as long to go back, wont let el olvido and fear get a hold of me... 

Yeah fear... 

A few weeks in Oaxaca and its day to dayness, the trips to the mercado to get some fresh pollo, queso, or mango, an exchange with the marchanta that sells you crunchy seasonal chapulines... or just sit down and have some memelitas straight off the comal, get a fresh jugo, or a tamal de mole and she'll have you, make you forget where you came from or where you're going. Here have some tejate.

Yeah fear... The fear of leaving, of not knowing, of not having it this good, of fighting on a day to day basis in the big metropolis without Angelita's Mujer Maravilla juice to give you a boost.

Problem is I am from a good sized pueblo myself and the minute I taste city life my eyes get wide, my step gets a spring in it, and I break out my city girl strut. Can take the girl out of a city but you most definitely can't take the city out of the girl it turns out.